Le Nougat

Origin

The nougat is an ancestral delicacy. It originates from different mediterranean civilizations. It exists several versions from nougat origin because nobody can claim certainly its origin.

According to the accounts collected since many centuries, the Phenicians were the first to distribute nougat through the mediterranean regions. From Italia to Spain and Greece in North countries, they managed to develop it until Turkey in South. It was a navigator people and their territory stretched from Lebanon, at the present time, as far as Israel, Palestine and Syria.

At the 12th century, the nougat is discovered in Arabs. It is called in eastern world “haloua” or “halwa” and come from “hlou” which means “sweet”.

In France, it was at the Middle Age that the nougat known all its renown. Firstly made in Marseille, the white nougat making expanded rapidly in provencal country. At this time, it is called “nux gatum” in other words “walnut cake” and in provencal language “nugo”. Later, it will become in french “nougat”.

But it was in 1650, when almond trees were planted in the “Vivarais”, Ardèche region at the present time, that Montelimar city became the nougat capital. It was Olivier De Serre who had recommended doing plant these trees two centuries before. It was an agronom. This success of Montelimar nougat stemed from a new ingredient in the making. In fact, the walnuts and the pine seeds are replaced by almonds.

But few craftsmans are specialized in nougat making and the sale. This product was marketed in funfairs above all.

Quickly, the nougat is entered in provencal life and today, it takes place in the Provencal Christmas tradition

Making proccess

The nougat making is today fully mechanized. However, there are still some factories which produce handmade nougats.

There are different stages to make nougat :

• Firstly, the honey and the sugar are mixed and cooked at high temperature.
  
• We add the sugar pastry and glucose syrup.
  
• The temperature is diminished. The egg whites are beaten until stiff and added in the mixture.
  
• To finish, candied fruits, almonds, walnuts or pistachios are added too. It depends of nougat variety.
  
• This pastry is rolled out in wood tins which are lined with unleavened.
  
• The pastry is cooling and cut by saw.
  

• The appellation “Nougat” or White Nougat corresponds to a fruit garnish at least to 15% .
  
• The Montelimar Nougat has 30% of fruit garnish and include roasted sweet almonds (28%) and pistachios (2%) .
  
• The Honey Nougat contains 20% of honey in sweet subtances .
  
• The Nougat Pastry has a fruit garnish less than 15% .
  
• The Provencal Nougat is based on honey, caramelized with almonds, hazelnuts, coriander, anise and flavoured by orange blossom .
  
• The Black Nougat or “Parisian” contains just 15% of garnish and it doesn’t aired ;.
  
• The Chinese or Vietnamian Nougat is made with sesame seeds, peanuts and sugar .
  
• The Tender Nougat is from Spain origin. It is based on hazelnuts, and contains icing sugar.
  
• The Iced Nougat is a frozen dessert with candied fruits, almonds and hazelnuts, and whipped cream.

Christmas Tradition

In France, the Provencal Christmas is famous. It is composed by different parts : the table preparation, the “Big Supper”, the midnight mass and the thirteen desserts cerenomy. It is in this last stage that we can find the nougat.

This cerenomy gives a religious sense at each food :

• The 13 desserts represent the “Last Supper” : Jesus and the 12 apostles. They are eaten after the mass and stay on the table allowing 3 days, until the 27th December.
  
• The 4 beggars : dried figs (Franciscans), almonds (Carmelites), raisins (Dominicans), walnuts (Augustans)..
  
• The dates represent Christ symbol come from the Orient.
  
• The nougats : 2 sorts of nougats are put on the table. One represents the purity and the Good (White Nougat) and the other designates the impurity and the Evil (Black Nougat)..
  
• The “Fougasse” with olive oil represents the pump : the “Fougasse” is a crusty lattice like bread made of puff pastry often flavoured with anchovy, black olive, herbs, spices or onions.
  
• The Quince jelly candy and the “Oreillettes” which is a thin wafer bisc.
  
• The fresh fruits, like tangerines, oranges, pears, grapes and melons are kept some time.